This
is our trip to Southern England/Sussex
For the
Millennium New Year celebration (28 December 1999 through 2 January 2000),
we traveled to southern England/Sussex, near the town of Battle. As it
was in the middle of the holidays, several areas were closed, but we managed
to see enough to keep us very busy and tired! We discovered on this
trip to Great Britain that every where we turned was another piece of
history to explore, another story to learn. It was amazing to realize
that, although this is a "small island," it would take us a
lifetime to explore it all.
We started out on our first day visiting Bodiam Castle on our way from
London to our final destination. The audio tour was great! This castle
is a late 14th century castle and considered one of England's most romantic...it
was truly beautiful. It was originally built as a defense against an anticipated
French invasion, which never manifested. We walked all over the area and
took several pictures! It was quite an experience walking on the spongy,
soggy ground all the while trying to avoid the piles left by the grazing
sheep. The views of, and from, the castle were spectacular! After our
visit, we headed to our hotel. We stayed in the Brickwall Hotel in Sedlescombe,
not far from Battle on the Roman road, next to an old Roman bridge. The
hotel was built in the early 1597 for a local ironmaster. Due to some
severe weather they had recently, the driving was a little worse than
usual. We would find ourselves driving down a typical one lane country
road just to find that a truck had gotten stuck on the ice and mud, and
we would have to back up to a place where we could turn around without
getting stuck, and then find another way around. Needless to say, the
severe weather caused a lot of problems with ice and washed out roads.
The next
day we took a drive to Rye and wandered all over the town. It is an ancient
fortified town where each street name has a story behind it (e.g., The
Mint street got its name form the 17th-century minting of tokens), and
the buildings are named instead of numbered (e.g., The House Next To The
Mermaid Inn). For 300 years, it had ports (beginning in the 11th century).
Unfortunately, the harbor began to silt up in the 16th century, which
resulted in the town now being located 2 miles inland. We fell in love
with Rye! Any town that has more old book stores and tea rooms with roaring
fires than anything else, is a dream town for the Hackstaffs. Every time
we traveled to Great Britain, we took an empty bag just to carry books
back to Germany with us. Needless to say, we filled it up with the many
books we bought while we were there. After our tour to the top of the
tower in St. Mary's Cathedral for a good view of the area, we headed for
Pevensey Castle. (Safety Note: DO NOT time trips to the tops of church
towers and place oneself in the bell tower ON the hour. It can be quite
startling when the bells toll!)
We thoroughly enjoyed Pevensey Castle. They had another great audio
tour and we talked with the caretaker until the sun went down. This castle
was originally a Roman fortress. After the Battle of Hastings (1066),
the castle was besieged many times. In 1940, Pevensey was made ready to
resist the enemy once again...you can still see the W.W.II gun emplacements
and pill boxes among the remains. We left Pevensey after sunset, which
makes driving very interesting! While in England, it always seemed to
rain at night, and we NEVER got used to driving 45-50 mph on those dark,
narrow, wet roads, on the wrong side. . .it was always a thrill! One feature
of the country roads we thoroughly enjoyed and depended on was something
called cat eyes. More in this a little later.
The next
day, we took the tour of the Battle of Hastings battle field. The battle
took place in 1066. We had read so much about it while we were in Northern
France and when we saw the Bayeux Tapestry with Eddie's parents, that
the battle field had a lot of meaning to us. We spent four hours there.
The caretakers were surprised we spent so long, because it was raining
heavily. Even though this was our only rainy day, and the rain was freezing
on the ground, we had to see every corner and listen to every recording
on the audio tour. It was great and really sparked our imaginations. We
had a fantastic time, albeit a very wet and cold one.
After touring the battle field, we headed to the city of Brighton on the
southern coast because the Brighton Pavilion was still open. What an incredible
site! To date, that was the most decadent palace we have ever toured.
It was transformed from its original design to the current design by George
IV in 1820. During the 1800's, Oriental design was all the rage and a
new status/social symbol in the homes of the wealthy. This palace was
transformed into an elaborate Oriental palace when the new design was
completed in 1822. We didn’t stay in Brighton too long, because it was
starting to fill up with people coming in for the New Year celebration,
and was getting very crowded. So we ran back to our quiet little hotel
for a relaxing evening.
For New
Year's eve, the next day, we traveled the Winnie the Pooh region and took
several walks. Our best walk was a wonderful stroll in the 100-acre
wood to Poohsticks Bridge. Yep, there is actually a Poohsticks Bridge!
Even though it was a typical winter day (damp and cloudy) we met several
people taking there children for a walk to the Poohsticks Bridge to play
"Sticks," also known as throwing sticks off the bridge to see
which stick "beats" which in the race down the stream.
It was amazing to not only see the children but also their parents traipsing
around in the rubber boots that Christopher Robbin always wore because
of the marshes one had to walk through.For
a full size view of the 100-acre wood, click on the map to the right.
After our walk, we stopped in the town of Hartfield for a quiet tea with
scones and honey at the Honey Pots Olde English Tea Rooms (at Stairs Farmhouse).
Hartfield in East Sussex is where Pooh Corner is located and, while there,
we bought lots of Pooh stuff at the Pooh Corner Shop.
That night
we had a great New Year's celebration at the hotel, which included a wonderful
meal and dancing as late as we wanted to live music. While dancing,
we soon discovered that the British like to dance in a circle, much like
what is done during country and western dancing, and that they believe
that everyone MUST become one with the circle. This was very difficult
for us because we just wanted to dance and be left alone to do our thing.
We actually ended up having had a nasty run in with one woman who kept
stomping Eddie's foot purposefully everytime she and her partner danced
close to us...she was not a small woman either. Sorry to say, the woman
lost the foot-stomping contest when Eddie finally got tired of it and
really stomped hard on her foot. She and her partner ended up dancing
on the other side of the floor well away from us. At midnight, the hotel
hosted the town's fireworks show. When all was finished, we retired to
our room for a semi-quiet night.
On New
Year's day, we got up a little late and went for a hike along the Seven
Sister's cliffs near the town of Eastbourne. On the way to the cliffs,
we took the back roads again and found some incredible old walled towns
along the way and saw lots of damage from the recent flooding. We really
can't tell you what the walled towns were called because we lost track
of them...there are so many "old" towns in England! The cliffs
are located in the Seven Sister's Country Park, which is part of the southern
Downs. The Downs are parallel chalk ridges that run from east to west
across Kent, Sussex, and Surrey. The Seven Sister's cliffs end abruptly
as they meet the sea and are very white (chalk). They were spectacular!
The bay at the foot of the Seven Sister's cliffs was where the movie,
"Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves" was filmed. We saw the place
where Kevin Costner jumped off of the boat and kissed the English soil.
We really weren't all that thrilled, but thought we would mention it for
those of you who are Costner fans! We hiked five of the Sister's (three
through seven) and ended up chatting with a group of locals at the top
of the seventh sister. While chatting with the group, we took the opportunity
to ask them what are cat eyes. Everytime we saw the sign "Caution
Cat Eyes Removed," we would immediately think of cats walking around
with white canes! They explained that cat eyes are reflective, glass balls
designed to be embedded in asphalt so that you can see the center line
while driving at night, something we don't have in Colorado. Of course,
after our question came theirs..."How are the Colonies these days?"
We all had a great laugh and chat, and soon we were headed back down the
trail. After our hike, we had a wonderful tea and scones at a café near
the trail and then headed back to the hotel.
Our first trip to southern
England was amazing and we hope to return one day soon to explore the
sites we missed with this trip. As the British (comedians) say...."Just
rub me up and down with a golfing umbrella"...it was that amazing!!!
Cheers,
Eddie and Sheena
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